The Complete Guide to New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Kenneth Ning, who has made a departure from his more conventional work. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Kenneth Ning, who has made a departure from his more conventional work. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

The fourth iteration of New York Fashion Week: Men’s begins Monday, Jan. 30. The event, organized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (C.F.D.A.), is four days of designers, models, editors, buyers and fashion fans rushing about Lower Manhattan (for the most part) to view some 70 shows and presentations, the majority taking place at Skylight Clarkson Sq, an event space at 550 Washington Street.

“New York men’s week is more important than ever, now that it’s more established,” Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ magazine, said. “I’m looking forward to even more designers on the schedule, especially new designers, and the return of some old standbys. Not to mention, Raf Simons showing here.”

Raf Simons is indeed the name on everyone’s lips. In 2015, when the Belgian designer departed Christian Dior, few anticipated he would end up on American shores. But late last summer, Mr. Simons took on a big job: the creative director for Calvin Klein. He is scheduled to show the latest collection from his own men’s wear line on Wednesday.

Editors of fashion magazines and department store buyers have lately traveled through men’s fashion shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris. The New York shows tend to have a looser, grittier feel than the often-extravagant runway exhibitions in Milan and Paris, and the people who attend seem more relaxed.

“I’m looking forward to seeing what the next guard of American men’s wear has in store for us: David Hart, John Elliot, Stampd, Todd Snyder,” Mr. Moore said. “These guys are pushing the industry forward in exciting ways.”

Want to see for yourself? Here is our guide to the week. (All events take place at Skylight Clarkson Sq unless otherwise noted).

The Get Down

Monday, Jan. 30, 8 p.m.

In previous years, the C.F.D.A. has given the opening party; this year, Billy Reid, a fashion superstar of the South and known bon vivant, will play the host. Mr. Reid will import his Shindig — the down-home revel of barbecue, liquor and music he gives every summer in Alabama — to the Cellar at the Beekman hotel. It starts at 9:30, after select guests watch his runway show.

Debuts

The Raf Simons show in Florence last June. Credit Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times

The Raf Simons show in Florence last June. Credit Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times

Raf Simons

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 8 p.m. (Secret location as of publication.)

Mr. Simons took the reins at Calvin Klein in August, where he will oversee both men’s and women’s collections. The Calvin Klein show — with the men’s and women’s collections presented together — will show together later in February. This one is devoted to his namesake men’s wear line, which makes its N.Y.F.W.: Men’s debut.

Dim Mak

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 11 a.m.

Electronic music aficionados with recognize the name Dim Mak as the indie label tied in with the D.J. Steve Aoki. Expect skateboarders, a halfpipe and live music at this presentation from a man known for his gift for spectacle. The streetwear label, founded in 2014 and until recently sold only in Japan, made its United States debut in the fall of 2016 with a pop-up shop in Los Angeles. If you can get in, this is one not to miss.

Dyne

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 1 to 2 p.m. (837 Washington Street)

Christopher Bevans of Dyne doesn’t make his clothing in a studio, but in a “design lab” in Portland, Ore., where the label is based. This is fashion at its tech-iest. Mr. Bevans, the former creative director of Pharrell’s Billionaire Boys Club and a lecturer at M.I.T., was also the designer behind Marshawn Lynch’s Beast Mode brand.

Jahnkoy

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 7:30 to 8:30 p.m.

Jahnkoy Maria, the Siberian-born designer behind Jahnkoy, describes herself as an artist interested in repurposing clothing as a means to raise awareness among consumers. Relying heavily on African and Caribbean tropes, the result is an eye-popping array of art as uniform.

Raun LaRose

Wednesday, Feb. 1, noon to 1 p.m. (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

This is the sixth season for Mr. Larose, a 30-year-old native New Yorker, but this presentation represents the first time his futuristic goods will appear at N.Y.F.W.: Men’s. He garnered much attention for a clever spring 2015 collection titled “Because the Internet.”

You As

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 10:30 to 11:30 a.m.

Recently graduated from the School of Art Institute of Chicago, Tony Liu’s year-old brand has a mission: to build a “lasting wardrobe.” For Mr. Liu, it’s all about new classics, not trends.

Death to Tennis

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 5 to 6 p.m. (Le Bain, 848 Washington Street)

The brainchild of the designer William Watson (who has experience at Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan) and the D.J. and stylist Vincent Oshin, Death to Tennis creates what the founders call “Adult Streetwear.” Think roomy chalk-stripe suits, quilted anoraks and funky knits.

Bode

Thursday, Feb. 2, 10:30 to 11:30 a.m.

A lot of people are talking about young Emily Bode’s old-school style. In July 2016, this Parson-trained designer introduced her line of men’s wear using found materials and antique fabrics that she has been collecting since childhood. Her models will include actors and dancers, whom she cast through Instagram, on a rotating set.

Willy Chavarria

Thursday, Feb. 2, 2:30 to 3:30 p.m.

The proprietor of Palmer Trading Company, on Sullivan Street, Mr. Chavarria began his fashion career dealing exclusively in vintage items, but eventually became recognized for contemporary work wear (he hates the word “heritage,” and we don’t blame him). He is presenting his own line for the first time.

Up and Comers

Julian Woodhouse and models. Credit Neilson Barnard/Getty Images

Julian Woodhouse and models. Credit Neilson Barnard/Getty Images

New York Men’s Day

Monday, Jan. 30, 10:30 a.m. to noon, and 4:30 to 6 p.m. (Dune Studios, 55 Water Street)

New York Men’s Day offers a vibrant concentration of prospects from the world of men’s fashion. It is sure to be a zingy and energetic affair, with each room a cacophony of models, photographers and gawkers. The early session includes Bristol, David Hart, Kozaburo, Krammer & Stoudt, Max ’n Chester and Uri Minkoff. Later on, you can catch David Naman, Maiden Noir, Private Policy, R. Swiader, By Robert James and one of our favorites from last season, Wood House.

EFM

Tuesday, Jan 31, noon (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

The EFM (“engineered for motion”) designer Donrad Duncan is all about high-tech sportswear. The rapper Young Paris, who made the playlist for this season’s show, will also appear as a model.

Brett Johnson

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 4 p.m. (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

Mr. Johnson, the son of the BET founders Sheila and Robert Johnson, started his line in 2013. The self-taught designer focuses on Italian-made, wearable, recognizable men’s wear staples.

Zachary Prell

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 7 to 8 p.m.

Mr. Prell, a former banker and venture capitalist, built his line on the sport shirt, because he believed it was the fundamental piece in a man’s wardrobe. Now his collection includes risk-free sweaters, sure-bet blazers and sensible polos.

Kenneth Ning

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 1 p.m. (837 Washington Street)

Mr. Ning, who riffed on looks inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s “Full Metal Jacket” last season, has made quite a departure from the more conventional work he made while designing for American powerhouses like Michael Kors and Calvin Klein. Definitely worth a look.

Deveaux

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 4 p.m. (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

TriBeCa’s Carson Street Clothiers, a fashion-forward men’s wear clubhouse, closed recently, but two of its founders — Matt Breen and Patrick Doss (along with Andrea Taso) — are pushing onward with their own made-in-the-USA collection.

Landlord

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 6:30 to 7:30 p.m.

Ryohei Kawanishi, the creative director of this brash, year-old label, loves to exaggerate. Everything in his collection — pockets, zippers, shoulders, pant legs — can be fun, loud and theatrical.

Loris Diran

Thursday, Feb. 2, 10 a.m.

The Franco-American Upper West Sider, who designed men’s looks for “The Devil Wears Prada,” unveils his latest “dialogue between sartorial and streetwear.” Expect double-breasted blazers, sleek silhouettes and texture galore.

Buzzy Brands

A model displaying a creation from Rochambeau during the New York men’s fashion week in February 2016. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

A model displaying a creation from Rochambeau during the New York men’s fashion week in February 2016. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Nick Graham

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 10 a.m.

It has been reported that the 87-year-old astronaut Buzz Aldrin will close out Mr. Graham’s show this year, adding a weird but wonderful touch to the Joe Boxer founder’s collection of punchy suits and shirts. This season the theme is Mars.

Carlos Campos

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 3 p.m.

Mr. Campos, who was born in Honduras and educated at the Fashion Institute of Technology, has been showing in New York since 2007. The son of a tailor, he has come into his in a major way over the last few seasons, moving from the Men’s Day group shows to his own stage.

Matiere

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 2:30 to 3:30 p.m.

Started in 2014, Matiere is the meeting of two forward-looking minds: the designers Scot Shandalove and Jake Zeitlin. They are dedicated to fabric, specializing in innovative, textured materials in their athleisure-themed men’s wear.

Rochambeau

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 3 p.m.

Expectations will be high this season after the design partners Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were named winners of Woolmark’s 2016-17 men’s wear prize (for the United States) in July 2016. The designers, who take inspiration of the post-Sept. 11 art world populated by the likes of Ryan McGinley and Dash Snow, count Nick Jonas among their fans.

Palmiers Du Mal

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 6 p.m.

This is the third New York outing for Brandon Capps and Shane Fonner’s unisex garments. Ideal for the jet set, if the jet set would only learn to chill.

Stampd

Thursday, Feb. 2, 2 to 3 p.m.

Chris Stamp’s minimalist collection of nylon bombers and urban gear — which evolved from his sneaker-paining business — is what you would call luxe streetwear. Approved by Kanye and Justin Bieber, Stampd is the logical end of the trim sweatpants trend.

Thaddeus O’Neil

Thursday, Feb. 2, 6 to 7 p.m.

Mr. O’Neil, a surfer, presents his meditative, breezy, yet rebellious pieces.

Suits

Models presenting creations by David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx during the New York Fashion Week: Men’s spring-fall 2017 show last summer. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Models presenting creations by David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx during the New York Fashion Week: Men’s spring-fall 2017 show last summer. Credit Kena Betancur/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

 

SamuelSohn

Monday, Jan. 30, 3 to 4 p.m. (Location undisclosed at press time.)

The suit makers combine luxury fabrics with specialized water-resistant and stretchy materials. This show, a first for the brand, is part of a push into the American market that, last year, included outfitting the Los Angeles Galaxy soccer club.

Boss

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 9 p.m. (Location undisclosed at press time.)

New York Fashion Week’s loss is men’s gain. The house announced in November that it intended to place more focus on its men’s ready-to-wear offerings, and would not be showing a women’s collection at N.Y.F.W.

David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 5 to 6 p.m. (Cooper Classics, 137 Perry Street)

Hart Schaffner Marx — a brand founded in Chicago in 1837 (now owned by the W Diamond Group) — has for a second season tapped David Hart (no relation to the founding Hart) as creative director of its capsule collection. Mr. Hart’s retro patterns and debonair cuts have made him N.Y.F.W.: Men’s suit star.

Combatant Gentleman

Thursday, Feb. 2, 11 a.m. to noon

The online retailer, established in 2012 and based in Irvine, Calif., offers suits for a low as $160. It’s the brainchild of Vishaal Melwani, the child of tailors, who uses an algorithm to provide office wear for what Mr. Melwani calls a “baller on a budget.”

Local Legends

Todd Snyder presentation at the N.Y.F.W.: Men’s in 2016. Credit Erin Baiano for The New York Times

Todd Snyder presentation at the N.Y.F.W.: Men’s in 2016. Credit Erin Baiano for The New York Times

Robert Geller

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 2 p.m.

The German-born Mr. Geller, who helped dress downtown Manhattan in the aughts as part of the goth-y label Cloak, has cemented himself as the premiere conceptual designer of New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

Ovadia & Sons

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 8 to 9 p.m.

The twin brothers Shimon and Ariel Ovadia grew up worshiping Ralph Lauren’s preppy sheen and the punk aesthetic of St. Marks Place. This show always draws a boisterous crowd.

Patrik Ervell

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 10 a.m.

Always sardonically intelligent in his designs, Mr. Ervell, a former fashion editor at V, has been focused on redefining the line between streetwear and formal wear long before his American contemporaries.

John Elliott

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 11 a.m.

The Los Angeles clothier, named one of GQ’s best American designers of the last decade, has perfected the art of taking what we wear on the field (our court, or pitch) and bringing it to the street, or office.

Todd Snyder

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 7 p.m.

Mr. Snyder, who had major roles at Ralph Lauren, Gap and J. Crew before founding his own brand in 2011, continues his near-peerless execution of American sportswear, including blazers you want to live in and knits to die for.

Tim Coppens

Thursday, Feb. 2, 7 to 9 p.m. (at Exposure Space, 393 Broadway)

After graduating Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Mr. Coppens turned to technical sportswear, working with brands like Bogner and RLX. In 2016, Mr. Coppens was named the creative director of Under Armor Sportwear. This season, he will present a capsule collection alongside a book, based on the collection, titled “Candylips.”

Internationalists

The designer Ricardo Seco. Credit Albert Urso/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

The designer Ricardo Seco. Credit Albert Urso/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Ricardo Seco

Monday, Jan. 30, 6 to 7 p.m. (Location undisclosed at time of publication)

With President Trump’s wall dominating the news, plenty of eyes will be on this Mexican-born designer, who in the past has played with materials from his homeland’s traditional cultural items, like serapes.

Garciavelez

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 10:30 to 11:30 a.m.

This is the third season that Carlos Garciavelez, the Mexican-born architect, urbanist and Harvard lecturer, has shown his chill and graphic collections during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

N. Hoolywood

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 5 p.m. (Metropolitan Suite, 123 West 18th Street)

The Japanese designer Daisuke Obana doesn’t follow men’s wear group think. But his looks, always a little mysterious, are grounded in practicality and recognizable silhouettes. The theme of this season: retro “high-spec” tive. (Huh?)

Palomo Spain

Thursday, Feb. 2, noon (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

Less than a year ago, the Spanish designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo made his debut with a gender-bending miasma inspired by Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando.” He is not afraid of a ruffle, the color pink or velvet.

General Idea

Thursday, Feb. 2, 5 p.m.

You may not find General Idea at Barney’s or down at the mall (unless you live near the shopping district, Shinjuku), but the Korean designer Bumsuk Choi’s singular approach to proportion and detail make this show a must-see.

British Invasion

N-p-Elliott

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 2:30 to 3:30 p.m.

Nicholas Elliott calls his clothing “principled street wear.” The Scotsman, who enjoys messing with expectations (formal prints on casual shorts; tank tops in velvet; pants as wide as gallon drums), is having his second go at New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

Represent

Thursday, Feb. 2, 4 p.m. (Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street)

As a measure of quality control, these Mancunians fabricate all of their wares in Britain, yet they have chosen New York as the place to show their ripped jeans, plaid shirts and hoodies popping out of shearling-lined jackets.

Matthew Adams Dolan

Thursday, Feb. 2, 5:30 to 6:30 p.m.

Mr. Dolan, who hails from Australia, is renowned as Rihanna’s go-to guy for denim. Look for his indigo-heavy overalls, jeans and jumpsuits that flare like nothing else you’ve seen before.

Birthdays Boys

The Joseph Abboud fashion show last July. Credit Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times

The Joseph Abboud fashion show last July. Credit Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times

Joseph Abboud

Monday, Jan. 30, 7 p.m. (St. Stephen’s Church, 151 East 28th Street)

Mr. Abboud’s namesake label (now owned by Tailored Brands, formerly Men’s Wearhouse) is celebrating 30 years. Mr. Abboud remains a king of the functional American suit. Late in 2016, it was announced that his company would dress the coaches of the National Basketball Association for the eighth straight year.

Ralph Lauren

Wednesday, Feb. 1 (by appointment only)

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Mr. Lauren’s legendary brand. While there is no show scheduled for next week, certain fashion V.I.P.s will be able to review the collection by appointment.

Guestlist

Jeffrey Rüdes

Tuesday, Jan. 31, 6 p.m.

Mr. Rüdes, the founder of J Brand jeans, established his namesake label in 2015, and gave his louche suits and expensive shirts a very nice home of their own by opening a sizable boutique on Greene Street in SoHo. On Tuesday, he’ll invite a few V.I.P.s to view the Florentine-tailored goods he’ll unleash next fall.

Orley

Thursday, Feb. 2, 3 p.m.

Alex Orley, Matthew Orley (they’re brothers) and Samantha Orley (Matthew Orley’s wife) started their brand in 2012 with just a select few pieces of colorful, patterned Italian knitwear. Since then, they have achieved critical praise, and expanded into fuller collections for men and women.

The Majors

Nautica

Wednesday, Feb. 1, 2 to 3 p.m.

One of the few major American sportswear brands to show this season, Nautica is determined to capitalize on the current wave of nostalgia for its signature decade, the 1990s. But the brand isn’t just holding on to the past: it has named the 19-year-old rapper and style sensation Lil Yachty as a creative designer.

John Varvatos

Thursday, Feb. 2, 7 to 9 p.m. (Diamond Horseshoe, 235 West 46th Street)

What is left to be said by this iconic rock-inspired brand? Plenty, apparently. Mr. Varvatos has named this season “Wild at Heart” in a nod to the 1990 David Lynch film, and promises leopard prints. We can also expect a good deal of denim, suede and killer leather jackets. When you’re reaching audiences the size of Mr. Varvatos’s, you have to play the hits.

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